Kuplung

It’s probably fair to say that Kuplung must be one of the only bars in Central Europe which is located in a disused mechanic’s repair shop, and also has an enormous whale skeleton as its central feature.

Constructed out of papier mache and wire, the whale hangs somewhat precariously above rickety wooden tables, usually thronged with customers. At one stage, dozens of fairy lights were threaded through the skull, ribs and tail, the bizarre structure lighting up the room like a Christmas decoration from another world. However, at the time of writing, most of the lights had flickered out, and just a dark shell remains.

Located on Kiraly ut, the entrance to the bar is unmarked but easy to spot. Crowds of young inebriated hipsters, wannabe-hipsters, punks, skaters or students are usually loitering outside, getting glared at and hushed by the tough-looking door staff. Once through the door, an intimidatingly large entrance hall leads to a hangar with graffiti-covered walls. There is also an art gallery, as well as table football and table tennis. A separate concert hall is open at weekends and in the corner, a DJ plays tunes that nobody really dances to.

Kuplung might have a grimy feel - it’s impossible to leave without your clothes reeking of cigarettes – but it is cheap and welcoming. For a cross-section of young, vibrant Budapest, there’s nowhere better to start.

(From the Korut, walk down Kiraly towards Deak ter. The bar is at number 46, two doors down from Siraly)